Quarantine
Quarantine is the process of keeping new fish separated from existing stock in order to observe the new guy, treat any issues, allow them to destress after being brought home/shipped. Quarantine is there so that you can ensure your new Goldfish is healthy and happy, before adding it to your display tank.
This is the key to buying new fish. Always quarantine, regardless of the source. The last thing we want to do is to add a beautiful new fish to our existing stock, to have a disease rip through the aquarium and wipe out our stock. Even Goldfish purchased from reputable sellers bed to be quarantined. It takes one teeny bacteria, one little parasite, one stressed fish and everything you have worked for will fall apart. Is it worth it? Absolutely not! We don't want to contaminate our existing, healthy stock with potentially fatal diseases.
This is the key to buying new fish. Always quarantine, regardless of the source. The last thing we want to do is to add a beautiful new fish to our existing stock, to have a disease rip through the aquarium and wipe out our stock. Even Goldfish purchased from reputable sellers bed to be quarantined. It takes one teeny bacteria, one little parasite, one stressed fish and everything you have worked for will fall apart. Is it worth it? Absolutely not! We don't want to contaminate our existing, healthy stock with potentially fatal diseases.
What will I need?
☆ 40+L/10+G quarantine tank, or plastic tub to keep your fish in for the quarantine period.
☆ Filter or airstone (air pump, air line and check valve). Preferably a cycled filter, but we can manage with water changes if not, in this case the filter/airstone is used to provide aeration.
☆ Test kit - if you haven't already got one, get a liquid kit in anyway (I recommend API Freshwater Master test kit). I purchased separate vials for each tank to reduce the risk of cross contamination.
☆ Dechlorinator - if you are running without a cycle, Seachem Prime is perfect as it also detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 24hours.
☆ Separate water change system - Buckets, siphon and gravel vacuum/Python/pond pump and hosing; whatever you use for water changes, ensure your quarantine has a separate system, so as not to cross contaminate the display.
☆ Food - during this time, feed sparingly to reduce waste in the tank.
☆ Flukes treatment (Kusuri plus or PraziPro) and the treatment regime.
☆ Vigilance - keep a close eye on the newbie for signs of illness, disease and stress.
☆ Filter or airstone (air pump, air line and check valve). Preferably a cycled filter, but we can manage with water changes if not, in this case the filter/airstone is used to provide aeration.
☆ Test kit - if you haven't already got one, get a liquid kit in anyway (I recommend API Freshwater Master test kit). I purchased separate vials for each tank to reduce the risk of cross contamination.
☆ Dechlorinator - if you are running without a cycle, Seachem Prime is perfect as it also detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 24hours.
☆ Separate water change system - Buckets, siphon and gravel vacuum/Python/pond pump and hosing; whatever you use for water changes, ensure your quarantine has a separate system, so as not to cross contaminate the display.
☆ Food - during this time, feed sparingly to reduce waste in the tank.
☆ Flukes treatment (Kusuri plus or PraziPro) and the treatment regime.
☆ Vigilance - keep a close eye on the newbie for signs of illness, disease and stress.
What should it look like?
Boring, empty and plain. Sorry chaps!
The best way to quarantine is a bare tank with a filter and a light. This enables you to watch everything closely and watch for any small signs that there may be an issue - by this, I mean look at poop clearly! Amongst other things, of course!
It also means, should there be a contagious disease or infection in the tank, there is less to sterilise once quarantine is over. You don't wanna be sterilising sand, plants, wood, caves, jewels, pebbles, LED bubbler and that cute "Gone Fishing" sign you just bought. Nope. Not fun at all!
The best way to quarantine is a bare tank with a filter and a light. This enables you to watch everything closely and watch for any small signs that there may be an issue - by this, I mean look at poop clearly! Amongst other things, of course!
It also means, should there be a contagious disease or infection in the tank, there is less to sterilise once quarantine is over. You don't wanna be sterilising sand, plants, wood, caves, jewels, pebbles, LED bubbler and that cute "Gone Fishing" sign you just bought. Nope. Not fun at all!
Why Quarantine?
I've often heard people say "I don't quarantine when I buy from xyz because I've never had a sick fish" - wonderful! But it takes one time. You have been lucky so far, one day you may not be so lucky. For me, it's risk management. Okay, an extra tank is a pain in the ass, but losing all your fish is a pain in the chest - heartbreak is more painful than any water changes.
Quarantine enables you to observe and treat your fish. I gave learnt the hard way that it's better to use your own judgement on wether your fish is sick or healthy. Remember, the supplier (be it a chain LFS or a fancy breeder) is there to make money. Whilst many are reputable, respectable and admirable - protect your stock. Observe your new fish for a few weeks upon arrival - just in case. The likelihood is all will be well, but it's not worth the risk to you and your beloved fin babies.
During quarantine, we can also easily treat any issues we may see without too much faffing around. We can also treat for Flukes before adding the newbie to the display, to ensure their numbers are kept in check.
Quarantine enables you to observe and treat your fish. I gave learnt the hard way that it's better to use your own judgement on wether your fish is sick or healthy. Remember, the supplier (be it a chain LFS or a fancy breeder) is there to make money. Whilst many are reputable, respectable and admirable - protect your stock. Observe your new fish for a few weeks upon arrival - just in case. The likelihood is all will be well, but it's not worth the risk to you and your beloved fin babies.
During quarantine, we can also easily treat any issues we may see without too much faffing around. We can also treat for Flukes before adding the newbie to the display, to ensure their numbers are kept in check.
How long should I Quarantine?
A good minimum guideline is 4-8weeks. The longer you quarantine, the better. Most will quarantine for 6 weeks - longer if needed. Always.
In this time, we hope any ailments the fish has show themselves, so we can treat before exposing and contaminating the display and our current stock. This won't always be the case, so always be vigilant, even once your fish is in the display. Some disease, parasites, bacteria and infection can lie dormant for longer than 4 weeks, some longer than 6months - so whilst this quarantine period is helpful, it may not catch everything. That isn't to say it's pointless, many issues will show up in this time, if they are there.
Shipping stress often leaves the Goldfish susceptible to illness soon after arriving, as their immune system is weakened. Quarantine also allows them the time to settle, as well as show their issues.
In this time, we hope any ailments the fish has show themselves, so we can treat before exposing and contaminating the display and our current stock. This won't always be the case, so always be vigilant, even once your fish is in the display. Some disease, parasites, bacteria and infection can lie dormant for longer than 4 weeks, some longer than 6months - so whilst this quarantine period is helpful, it may not catch everything. That isn't to say it's pointless, many issues will show up in this time, if they are there.
Shipping stress often leaves the Goldfish susceptible to illness soon after arriving, as their immune system is weakened. Quarantine also allows them the time to settle, as well as show their issues.
What do I do during Quarantine?
Hopefully, Sweet FA!
...But that's not a very good answer. Observe, observe, observe. This is what quarantine is for. Unless you see an issue, don't treat the fish.
That is, however, not the case for flukes. I recommend treating your newbie for Flukes during quarantine. Generally speaking, all Goldfish have Flukes we only see issues when their numbers get out of control. In order to prevent issues occurring, treat all new stock upon arrival, and existing stock biannually, following the treatment regime in the illness section of the website.
Ensure your water is of the highest quality throughout. The biggest cause of sickness in Goldfish is poor wayer quality. By keeping the water pristine, you are reducing the risk of the Goldfish becoming sick.
If you are running the quarantine without a cycle, daily 50% water changes will be necessary. If you have a cycle, I still recommend doing them as pristine water allows your fish to thrive - but it isn't necessary to do them.
Test parameters daily. Any ammonia or nitrite and you will need to do a water change and dose Prime.
If your quarantine is "overstocked" and cycled - I use a 10G for quarantining relatively small newbies, small tanks are fine short term and allow us to use less medication when treating, then your water changes will need to be 2-3 times a week, regardless of your parameters. Remember, there's many things we don't test for that are present and need removing, not just nitrates.
...But that's not a very good answer. Observe, observe, observe. This is what quarantine is for. Unless you see an issue, don't treat the fish.
That is, however, not the case for flukes. I recommend treating your newbie for Flukes during quarantine. Generally speaking, all Goldfish have Flukes we only see issues when their numbers get out of control. In order to prevent issues occurring, treat all new stock upon arrival, and existing stock biannually, following the treatment regime in the illness section of the website.
Ensure your water is of the highest quality throughout. The biggest cause of sickness in Goldfish is poor wayer quality. By keeping the water pristine, you are reducing the risk of the Goldfish becoming sick.
If you are running the quarantine without a cycle, daily 50% water changes will be necessary. If you have a cycle, I still recommend doing them as pristine water allows your fish to thrive - but it isn't necessary to do them.
Test parameters daily. Any ammonia or nitrite and you will need to do a water change and dose Prime.
If your quarantine is "overstocked" and cycled - I use a 10G for quarantining relatively small newbies, small tanks are fine short term and allow us to use less medication when treating, then your water changes will need to be 2-3 times a week, regardless of your parameters. Remember, there's many things we don't test for that are present and need removing, not just nitrates.
How do i know when to end Quarantine?
After your alloted time has passed (8+weeks is always better, but 4-8weeks is a pretty normal quarantine period), if there have been no issues and the fish has been treated for Flukes, you can go ahead and move the newbie to the display.
If you are unsure, or there has been issues - wait it out. I like to have a good 4 week period where the newbie has no issues. For example, a new guy may get ich 2 weeks into having him, I would then treat for two weeks then have a tweet quarantine period, in order to observe him "healthy".
If you are unsure, or there has been issues - wait it out. I like to have a good 4 week period where the newbie has no issues. For example, a new guy may get ich 2 weeks into having him, I would then treat for two weeks then have a tweet quarantine period, in order to observe him "healthy".
Adding fish to the display
Test the pH of both tanks and your tap. If both tanks pH matches (or differs by less than 0.5) then you can check the temperature is also a match and move the fish across. Et voila!
...sometimes, it ain't that simple. If the pH differs by more than 0.5 between tanks, move the fish to a bucket half filled with current tank water and add a few cups of new tank water every few minutes. Once the bucket is almost full, allow the fish to sit for a short while before moving it to your display. This should allow the fish to slowly adjust to the differing pH values and should reduce the risk of pH shock. The slower this is done, the better. Some drain half their quarantine and top up with display water to allow the fish to carry on living the life of Riley throughout this process.
If the temperature differs and you aren't using heaters (if you are, slowly adjust til they match, no more than 2c an hour) place the fish into a bag or tub of quarantine tank water and float them in the new tank for 30 minutes. Once this time is up, gently lift the fish into the display - making sure you don't transfer any of the bag wayer across (though, by this point, you're moving the fish so any contaminants present would probably move anyway. It can't hurt to be careful and reduce these risks further though!)
...sometimes, it ain't that simple. If the pH differs by more than 0.5 between tanks, move the fish to a bucket half filled with current tank water and add a few cups of new tank water every few minutes. Once the bucket is almost full, allow the fish to sit for a short while before moving it to your display. This should allow the fish to slowly adjust to the differing pH values and should reduce the risk of pH shock. The slower this is done, the better. Some drain half their quarantine and top up with display water to allow the fish to carry on living the life of Riley throughout this process.
If the temperature differs and you aren't using heaters (if you are, slowly adjust til they match, no more than 2c an hour) place the fish into a bag or tub of quarantine tank water and float them in the new tank for 30 minutes. Once this time is up, gently lift the fish into the display - making sure you don't transfer any of the bag wayer across (though, by this point, you're moving the fish so any contaminants present would probably move anyway. It can't hurt to be careful and reduce these risks further though!)