Recovering from a Cycle Bump
Cycle Bump, Mini cycle, parameter spikes.... They all mean the same thing. The Nitrogen Cycle that keeps our tank nice and healthy has become unstable, unbalanced and is not quite keeping up with waste conversion.
Your cycle bumps when you have a sudden loss of some beneficial bacteria. Not necessarily all of it (that would be a complete cycle restart)but some. Your Filter media (where the majority of your Nitrifying bacteria live and your cycle is held) contains the EXACT beneficial bacteria for the current bioload. Anything that changes the bioload, will affect the cycle. As fish grow, they produce more waste but this is a slow increase in bioload that the beneficial bacteria can keep up with.
Nitrifying Bacteria DOES NOT live in the water column. In fact, it attaches itself to surfaces. It's favourite place to be is a place where there is high flow and lots of oxygen... The filter media! However, you will find some nitrifying bacteria on all surfaces of the tank but the majority reside in the filter media.
Adding more fish, increasing feeding, removing substrate or decor, switching off the filter for prolonged periods, removing/replacing filter media can all cause an imbalance in the cycle and cause a bump.
(I'm pretty flakey with my wording; Nitrifying and Beneficial Bacteria are the same thing. I just use whatever word my fingers type first!)
Your cycle bumps when you have a sudden loss of some beneficial bacteria. Not necessarily all of it (that would be a complete cycle restart)but some. Your Filter media (where the majority of your Nitrifying bacteria live and your cycle is held) contains the EXACT beneficial bacteria for the current bioload. Anything that changes the bioload, will affect the cycle. As fish grow, they produce more waste but this is a slow increase in bioload that the beneficial bacteria can keep up with.
Nitrifying Bacteria DOES NOT live in the water column. In fact, it attaches itself to surfaces. It's favourite place to be is a place where there is high flow and lots of oxygen... The filter media! However, you will find some nitrifying bacteria on all surfaces of the tank but the majority reside in the filter media.
Adding more fish, increasing feeding, removing substrate or decor, switching off the filter for prolonged periods, removing/replacing filter media can all cause an imbalance in the cycle and cause a bump.
(I'm pretty flakey with my wording; Nitrifying and Beneficial Bacteria are the same thing. I just use whatever word my fingers type first!)
What does a Cycle Bump look like?
A cycled tank would show 0ppm Ammonia and 0ppm Nitrites and a reading for nitrates. A cycle bump is when we have readings for either Ammonia and/or nitrite after a period of the cycle being established.
A reading of 0.25ppm is still considered a reading and is stressful for the fish. Even though it doesn't sound like much, any reading should be taken seriously. These numbers will generally rise before they fall, so don't ignore a trace reading!
A reading of 0.25ppm is still considered a reading and is stressful for the fish. Even though it doesn't sound like much, any reading should be taken seriously. These numbers will generally rise before they fall, so don't ignore a trace reading!
Are my Goldfish in Danger?
Potentially, yes.
Ammonia, nitrite (and nitrate at higher levels) are toxic to fish. The cycle is what keeps them safe.
During a bump, the fish aren't exposed to such high levels as they would be during the cycle itself, but they will still be exposed to potentially lethal levels of toxins. If not lethal, certainly stressful levels.
Vigilance is key, water changes are paramount and close monitoring is necessary.
You are responsible for protecting your fish. ALWAYS. If that means daily water changes whilst your cycle reestablishes, that is down to you to manage. Yes, it can be a bit of a pain in the butt, but it's for their welfare, their well being and their protection so it is 100%, without shadow of a doubt, worth it.
Ammonia, nitrite (and nitrate at higher levels) are toxic to fish. The cycle is what keeps them safe.
During a bump, the fish aren't exposed to such high levels as they would be during the cycle itself, but they will still be exposed to potentially lethal levels of toxins. If not lethal, certainly stressful levels.
Vigilance is key, water changes are paramount and close monitoring is necessary.
You are responsible for protecting your fish. ALWAYS. If that means daily water changes whilst your cycle reestablishes, that is down to you to manage. Yes, it can be a bit of a pain in the butt, but it's for their welfare, their well being and their protection so it is 100%, without shadow of a doubt, worth it.
How do I recover my Cycle?
If you add or remove anything to or from your tank, you must monitor the parameters closely. Weekly monitoring (or more often) is a good practice, regardless of if things have changed so you can adjust your maintenance schedule to suit your tanks needs.
What will I need?
☆ Liquid test kit - I use the API Freshwater Master test kit, but any liquid kit will work. Avoid test strips as they are inaccurate and very pricey in the long run and ensure the kit you are using contains tests for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH (High and Low range oh is preferred)
☆ Seachem Prime - I strongly recommend Seachem Prime as something you should just have in, at all times. It is a very economical dechlorinator as it is very concentrated. It has the added benefits of neutralising ammomia and nitrites for 24 hours which will protect our fish during the cycle. Amquel Plus (I'm sure there's others too!) Does the same thing, but is less economical, which is why I recommend the Prime.
☆ Water change system - Buckets and a siphon, a Python (or similar) water changer or a pond pump and hose.
☆ Patience, Vigilance and Time - as with all things in this hobby!
☆ Test your water at least once a day after you have added new stock or removed decor/media etc. If anything seems awry in your tank, test your parameters.
☆ If your ammonia or Nitrite reads bow 0.5ppm, dose Prime and test in 24hours. This will protect the fish and allow the bacteria to be consumed by the nitrifying bacteria. The excess is neutralised by the Prime, whilst still being edible to the Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira (Nitrifying Bacteria). The increase in waste, resulting from an increase in bioload or decrease in bacteria, will encourage the bacteria to reproduce to catch up with the waste now being produced.
☆ If you do not have Prime, or a product that will neutralise these toxins, perform a water change. If your tank and tap pH differ by more than 0.5, do 50% water changes. If they match, go bigger.. monitor and change the water as necessary.
☆ If your tank is reading between 0.5+ or ammonia and/or nitrites, double dose Prime and test in 24 hours.
☆If you do not have Prime, or a product that will neutralise these toxins, perform a water change and monitor closely.
☆ Once your tank hits 1ppm ammonia or nitrite (or if it is close) perform a 50% water change to reduce the readings to a manageable level, 0.5ppm, and double dose the Prime and repeat.
☆ If you do not have Prime, or a product that will neutralise these toxins, perform a water change and monitor closely.
☆ A reading of 1ppm with a 50% water change will be reduced to 0.5ppm, a 75% water change would reduce that to 0.25ppm etc.
☆ If your tank and tap pH differ by more than 0.5 and you have high readings and no Prime, back to back 50% water changes will be necessary. Remember, 2×50% water changes DO NOT equal a 100% water change, they equal a 75% water change.
It is unlikely that this process will last longer than a week or two, and usually only needs one or two extra water changes if you have a neutralising product such as Seachem Prime.
What will I need?
☆ Liquid test kit - I use the API Freshwater Master test kit, but any liquid kit will work. Avoid test strips as they are inaccurate and very pricey in the long run and ensure the kit you are using contains tests for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH (High and Low range oh is preferred)
☆ Seachem Prime - I strongly recommend Seachem Prime as something you should just have in, at all times. It is a very economical dechlorinator as it is very concentrated. It has the added benefits of neutralising ammomia and nitrites for 24 hours which will protect our fish during the cycle. Amquel Plus (I'm sure there's others too!) Does the same thing, but is less economical, which is why I recommend the Prime.
☆ Water change system - Buckets and a siphon, a Python (or similar) water changer or a pond pump and hose.
☆ Patience, Vigilance and Time - as with all things in this hobby!
☆ Test your water at least once a day after you have added new stock or removed decor/media etc. If anything seems awry in your tank, test your parameters.
☆ If your ammonia or Nitrite reads bow 0.5ppm, dose Prime and test in 24hours. This will protect the fish and allow the bacteria to be consumed by the nitrifying bacteria. The excess is neutralised by the Prime, whilst still being edible to the Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira (Nitrifying Bacteria). The increase in waste, resulting from an increase in bioload or decrease in bacteria, will encourage the bacteria to reproduce to catch up with the waste now being produced.
☆ If you do not have Prime, or a product that will neutralise these toxins, perform a water change. If your tank and tap pH differ by more than 0.5, do 50% water changes. If they match, go bigger.. monitor and change the water as necessary.
☆ If your tank is reading between 0.5+ or ammonia and/or nitrites, double dose Prime and test in 24 hours.
☆If you do not have Prime, or a product that will neutralise these toxins, perform a water change and monitor closely.
☆ Once your tank hits 1ppm ammonia or nitrite (or if it is close) perform a 50% water change to reduce the readings to a manageable level, 0.5ppm, and double dose the Prime and repeat.
☆ If you do not have Prime, or a product that will neutralise these toxins, perform a water change and monitor closely.
☆ A reading of 1ppm with a 50% water change will be reduced to 0.5ppm, a 75% water change would reduce that to 0.25ppm etc.
☆ If your tank and tap pH differ by more than 0.5 and you have high readings and no Prime, back to back 50% water changes will be necessary. Remember, 2×50% water changes DO NOT equal a 100% water change, they equal a 75% water change.
It is unlikely that this process will last longer than a week or two, and usually only needs one or two extra water changes if you have a neutralising product such as Seachem Prime.
Can I prevent this happening again?
We can do lots of things to ensure our cycle stays in tact, but it doesn't mean that the cycle will hold steady permanently. Sometimes, situations out of our control cause out cycle to become unstable. Power cuts are a fantastic example of this... we can prepare, but if we're out running erands, we can be unaware of issues. So yes, we can try to prevent it happening, but sometimes we will have a cycle bump.
Always dechlorinate the water you are adding to your tank. The chemicals and heavy metals contained can be harmful to the fish and also to the bacteria. Chlorine has the potential to wipe out the cycle. I add my dechlorinator to the tank before refilling. Simply dose the whole tank volume and refill.
If your media needs a wash ALWAYS use old tank/dechlorinated water, for the reasons stated above. Look after your media, protect you cycle.
If you need to replace you media (only if it is falling apart and cannot be used no more!!), do so slowly. Either add the new media and stick the old stuff around it for a month or two whilst it seeds, or by removing small pieces at a time and replacing with new media. DO NOT replace all your media in one go or you will remove your cycle and have to start from scratch.
A good maintenance schedule is vital for preventing disruption to the Nitrogen Cycle. A build up of waste, left uncleaned can cause spikes in parameters as things rot. 50% weekly water changes are BARE MINIMUM on an appropriately stocked tank. More is always better and make sure that you clear any debris. I like to use a turkey baster to suck up the poop and food piles that build up (or adjust the filter output so the current pushes the crud into the input, if you have sand or bare bottom). If you have gravel, regular Vacuuming is vital.
Maintaining clean mechanical filtration is also key to prevention. Good mechanical filtration will clear debris out of the water, allowing the biological filtration to be as efficient as it can be by ensuring a supply of oxygen reaches it. Gunky biological filtration blocks off the oxygen to the Beneficial Bacteria and it will suffocate and die off. Keeping the mechanical media clean, is key to ensuring your biofiltration is efficient.
Always dechlorinate the water you are adding to your tank. The chemicals and heavy metals contained can be harmful to the fish and also to the bacteria. Chlorine has the potential to wipe out the cycle. I add my dechlorinator to the tank before refilling. Simply dose the whole tank volume and refill.
If your media needs a wash ALWAYS use old tank/dechlorinated water, for the reasons stated above. Look after your media, protect you cycle.
If you need to replace you media (only if it is falling apart and cannot be used no more!!), do so slowly. Either add the new media and stick the old stuff around it for a month or two whilst it seeds, or by removing small pieces at a time and replacing with new media. DO NOT replace all your media in one go or you will remove your cycle and have to start from scratch.
A good maintenance schedule is vital for preventing disruption to the Nitrogen Cycle. A build up of waste, left uncleaned can cause spikes in parameters as things rot. 50% weekly water changes are BARE MINIMUM on an appropriately stocked tank. More is always better and make sure that you clear any debris. I like to use a turkey baster to suck up the poop and food piles that build up (or adjust the filter output so the current pushes the crud into the input, if you have sand or bare bottom). If you have gravel, regular Vacuuming is vital.
Maintaining clean mechanical filtration is also key to prevention. Good mechanical filtration will clear debris out of the water, allowing the biological filtration to be as efficient as it can be by ensuring a supply of oxygen reaches it. Gunky biological filtration blocks off the oxygen to the Beneficial Bacteria and it will suffocate and die off. Keeping the mechanical media clean, is key to ensuring your biofiltration is efficient.
To prevent cycle bumps, always increase the bioload slowly. Never add a bunch of fish to an established tank and assume everything will hold because the tank is cycled. Your Nitrifying Bacteria produced just the right amount if themselves to deal with Mr. Goldfish when he lived alone, but now you've added three friends for him, you've massively increased the bioload in one go. Add fish slowly. One at a time, at a rate of one per month maximum.
REMEMBER Goldfish, Snails, Plecos.... anything that you add to your tank has a bioload! Monitor your levels closely when adding stock to an established tank.
If you fancy a change of substrate, remove your current substrate slowly. I recommend no more than 25% removal per week. This is because whenever you remove substrate, you can cause your cycle to bump as there's Nitrifying Bacteria in there. Slow removal means that we don't disrupt our cycle too much and whilst we are still removing bacteria, we are doing it at a rate that the bacteria elsewhere can reproduce and handle the bioload of the tank.
If you have a power cut, there isn't a great deal you can do if you're out. If the power cut won't last more than a couple of hours, you are unlikely to have a problem. When I do big tank cleanings, I have my filters off for an hour or two with no issues, I wouldn't want to push it more than four hours or so.
If you are home during a powercut, there's a few things you can do. Ensure your media remains wet throughout. Keep a battery powered air pump on stand by. Perform regular water changes and dose Seachem Prime.
I put all my filter media in a plastic 2 litre bottle, cut in the middle, filled with media and squished back together, holes drilled in the base for the water input and the lid for the output and a hole around 1" from the base for the airline to run into. Placed into the tank, this creates a battery powered, air driven filter that will help maintain the cycle. The filtration turnover isn't great, but it ensures a food and oxygen supply to the bacteria.
Vigilance is key!
Know your tank, know your water, understand the nitrogen cycle and monitor closely. This is essential for the health and well being of your aquarium.
Maintenance is essential!
Ensuring you keep up a good water change schedule, siphoning away waste and debris, keeping the filter clean, regular water testing and taking care of your bacteria is what is going to keep your fish healthy.
REMEMBER Goldfish, Snails, Plecos.... anything that you add to your tank has a bioload! Monitor your levels closely when adding stock to an established tank.
If you fancy a change of substrate, remove your current substrate slowly. I recommend no more than 25% removal per week. This is because whenever you remove substrate, you can cause your cycle to bump as there's Nitrifying Bacteria in there. Slow removal means that we don't disrupt our cycle too much and whilst we are still removing bacteria, we are doing it at a rate that the bacteria elsewhere can reproduce and handle the bioload of the tank.
If you have a power cut, there isn't a great deal you can do if you're out. If the power cut won't last more than a couple of hours, you are unlikely to have a problem. When I do big tank cleanings, I have my filters off for an hour or two with no issues, I wouldn't want to push it more than four hours or so.
If you are home during a powercut, there's a few things you can do. Ensure your media remains wet throughout. Keep a battery powered air pump on stand by. Perform regular water changes and dose Seachem Prime.
I put all my filter media in a plastic 2 litre bottle, cut in the middle, filled with media and squished back together, holes drilled in the base for the water input and the lid for the output and a hole around 1" from the base for the airline to run into. Placed into the tank, this creates a battery powered, air driven filter that will help maintain the cycle. The filtration turnover isn't great, but it ensures a food and oxygen supply to the bacteria.
Vigilance is key!
Know your tank, know your water, understand the nitrogen cycle and monitor closely. This is essential for the health and well being of your aquarium.
Maintenance is essential!
Ensuring you keep up a good water change schedule, siphoning away waste and debris, keeping the filter clean, regular water testing and taking care of your bacteria is what is going to keep your fish healthy.