Anchor Worm
Lernea are a crustacean copepod which attach to the body of a fish to feed. Only the adult females will attach themselves, so be aware that males, eggs are larvae will be in the aquarium or on the fish without you being able to see them. Keep an eye out for flashing and your fish may appear generally unwell.
They have a hard, crustacean like body and can grow up to 15mm long and look like greenish/grey worms attached to the skin of the Goldfish. The female attaches her head deep under the scales of the fish to feed and lays her eggs from here. The site where the worm attaches herself is usually raised and red, quite sore looking (you may notice this before you notice the worm) and upon removal, the site is open to infection so remain vigilant, even once the females are removed. If you see a string coming away from the female, this is her laying eggs.
They have a hard, crustacean like body and can grow up to 15mm long and look like greenish/grey worms attached to the skin of the Goldfish. The female attaches her head deep under the scales of the fish to feed and lays her eggs from here. The site where the worm attaches herself is usually raised and red, quite sore looking (you may notice this before you notice the worm) and upon removal, the site is open to infection so remain vigilant, even once the females are removed. If you see a string coming away from the female, this is her laying eggs.
Treatment
☆ Female anchor worms should be removed with tweezers as soon as they're spotted. Gently hold the fish and grab onto the female, firm but not so hard you will sever her head off and give a firm pull. The female Anchor worm should come away from the fish.
☆ Raise salinity to 0.1% to prevent secondary infections. (0.1% = 1gram per litre or 1 teaspoon per USG). If the tank is unsalted, petroleum jelly can be used to protect the removal site from infection.
☆ Treat using Diflubenzuron (Dimilin, Waterlife Parazin P). It is a Gyrase inhibitor that is non toxic to fish, but effectively treats Lice and Anchor worms.
☆ A daily Methylene blue dip can help. Methylene Blue will destroy nitrifying bacteria so only use as a dip, DO NOT dose directly to your aquarium or you will lose your cycle. Dechlorinator can remove MB, so if you have dechlorinated the water, wait 30+minutes before adding MB.The Methylene blue will help to treat damage caused by the anchor worms. A dip using a dose of 1 teaspoon per 5USG can be performed for 30 minutes daily.
☆ If Diflubenzuron is not available, a Potassium Permanganate dip may be used, at a dosage of 100mg/2.5USG. The tub should be aerated. Dip for 20minutes. This treatment does not treat the eggs, males and larval stages in the tank, so Diflubenzuron should be sought to ensure the tank is being effectively treated. Potassium Permanganate can be finicky and has been known to cause fatalities. I wouldn't advise this treatment route, personally, but it is an option to consider.
☆ Daily water changes should be performed if treating with Potassium Permanganate with thorough gravel vacuums.
☆ Quarantine is one of the best ways of preventing your stock becoming infected with anchor worm. At least it will contain the issue to your quarantine tank and enable treatment prior to addition. Always quarantine new stock. Always.
☆ Raise salinity to 0.1% to prevent secondary infections. (0.1% = 1gram per litre or 1 teaspoon per USG). If the tank is unsalted, petroleum jelly can be used to protect the removal site from infection.
☆ Treat using Diflubenzuron (Dimilin, Waterlife Parazin P). It is a Gyrase inhibitor that is non toxic to fish, but effectively treats Lice and Anchor worms.
☆ A daily Methylene blue dip can help. Methylene Blue will destroy nitrifying bacteria so only use as a dip, DO NOT dose directly to your aquarium or you will lose your cycle. Dechlorinator can remove MB, so if you have dechlorinated the water, wait 30+minutes before adding MB.The Methylene blue will help to treat damage caused by the anchor worms. A dip using a dose of 1 teaspoon per 5USG can be performed for 30 minutes daily.
☆ If Diflubenzuron is not available, a Potassium Permanganate dip may be used, at a dosage of 100mg/2.5USG. The tub should be aerated. Dip for 20minutes. This treatment does not treat the eggs, males and larval stages in the tank, so Diflubenzuron should be sought to ensure the tank is being effectively treated. Potassium Permanganate can be finicky and has been known to cause fatalities. I wouldn't advise this treatment route, personally, but it is an option to consider.
☆ Daily water changes should be performed if treating with Potassium Permanganate with thorough gravel vacuums.
☆ Quarantine is one of the best ways of preventing your stock becoming infected with anchor worm. At least it will contain the issue to your quarantine tank and enable treatment prior to addition. Always quarantine new stock. Always.