Filtration
Filtration is essential to maintaining a healthy aquarium environment.
Filtration keeps your aquarium healthy by providing circulation, surface agitation, consuming toxins, removing debris and polishing the water. The filter holds the nitrogen cycle and this is the key to maintaining a healthy aquarium.
Filtration falls into three main categories; Mechanical, Biological and Chemical. Chemical filtration isn't always necessary, but Biological and Mechanical are.
Filtration keeps your aquarium healthy by providing circulation, surface agitation, consuming toxins, removing debris and polishing the water. The filter holds the nitrogen cycle and this is the key to maintaining a healthy aquarium.
Filtration falls into three main categories; Mechanical, Biological and Chemical. Chemical filtration isn't always necessary, but Biological and Mechanical are.
How does it work?
Mechanical Filtration; This is where the debris is cleared out of the water. Sponge or floss is used to remove all the larger particles from the water. This includes; uneaten food, fish waste and decayed plant matter, amongst other things. Mechanical filtration keeps the water looking clean, whilst ensuring the biological filtration can run as efficiently as possible.
The coarser the mechanical filtration, the larger the particle that can fit through. The finer the mechanical filtration, the gunkier it will get (not a bad thing, this is polishing the water to make it look crystal clear!) and the more often it will need rinsing.
Biological filtration; This is where the toxins are converted to a less toxic form. Your biological filtration, once cycled, will contain a colony of Nirtifying bacteria. These bacteria consume the waste and ensure the water is safe for the fish. Nitrifying bacteria consists of Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira. As the water flows over the biological filtration, Nitrosomonas consume ammonia and produce nitrite, Nitrospira consume nitrite and produce nitrate. It is this process (the nitrogen cycle) that ensures our fish live in clean water and isn't subjected to harsh toxins being present in the water column.
Whilst these bacteria are present on all surfaces of the aquarium, the filter holds the vast majority as oxygen and waste are pushed through the media.
Chemical Filtration; Chemical filtration comes in a variety of different forms, each effective for different filtering purposes and is not a vital component of your filtration but can offer some benefits, if used correctly. Chemical filtration attracts certain particles and adheres them to its surface, removing it from the water (BE WARNED: Chemical Media may spit all the junk it's collected if not replaced/recharged regularly).
Activated Carbon, Zeolite and Purigen, amongst others, all fall into the chemical category. Activated carbon is useful for clearing medication out of the water column. Personally, this is the only reason I would use AC. You risk them unloading the debris they've collected and they can mask issues that you would otherwise notice if they weren't present.
The coarser the mechanical filtration, the larger the particle that can fit through. The finer the mechanical filtration, the gunkier it will get (not a bad thing, this is polishing the water to make it look crystal clear!) and the more often it will need rinsing.
Biological filtration; This is where the toxins are converted to a less toxic form. Your biological filtration, once cycled, will contain a colony of Nirtifying bacteria. These bacteria consume the waste and ensure the water is safe for the fish. Nitrifying bacteria consists of Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira. As the water flows over the biological filtration, Nitrosomonas consume ammonia and produce nitrite, Nitrospira consume nitrite and produce nitrate. It is this process (the nitrogen cycle) that ensures our fish live in clean water and isn't subjected to harsh toxins being present in the water column.
Whilst these bacteria are present on all surfaces of the aquarium, the filter holds the vast majority as oxygen and waste are pushed through the media.
Chemical Filtration; Chemical filtration comes in a variety of different forms, each effective for different filtering purposes and is not a vital component of your filtration but can offer some benefits, if used correctly. Chemical filtration attracts certain particles and adheres them to its surface, removing it from the water (BE WARNED: Chemical Media may spit all the junk it's collected if not replaced/recharged regularly).
Activated Carbon, Zeolite and Purigen, amongst others, all fall into the chemical category. Activated carbon is useful for clearing medication out of the water column. Personally, this is the only reason I would use AC. You risk them unloading the debris they've collected and they can mask issues that you would otherwise notice if they weren't present.
How much filtration?
Goldfish produce huge amounts of waste and require masses of filtration. You should aim to have AT LEAST 8× the tank volume turnover per hour. If you are using Hang on filters or internal filters, which have room for less media, you should aim for AT LEAST 10× the tank volume turnover per hour.
More filtration is always better. If the output creates too strong a current, you can baffle the flow. You can't really have too much filtration, but you can definitely have too little.
More filtration is always better. If the output creates too strong a current, you can baffle the flow. You can't really have too much filtration, but you can definitely have too little.
What kind of filter should I run?
The best filter is the filter with the biggest space for media. Your filter will run more efficiently, the more surface area it contains. Generally speaking, Sumps have the biggest space, followed by canisters, then Hang on the back filters (HOBs), then internals. Of course, each brand will be slightly different.
External filters (HOBs, canisters, sumps) are a better option over internals as they don't take up space in the tank. For this reason, they are preferred. If you can get a large sump, fantastic! Canisters are a good second choice.
As long as you have lots of surface area for nitrifying bacteria, you're onto a winner.
External filters (HOBs, canisters, sumps) are a better option over internals as they don't take up space in the tank. For this reason, they are preferred. If you can get a large sump, fantastic! Canisters are a good second choice.
As long as you have lots of surface area for nitrifying bacteria, you're onto a winner.
What media should I use?
Sponge, floss, filter pads make great mechanical filtration. This is the stuff that will get dirty and will need rinsing regularly in old tank/dechlorinated water.
For biological filtration, you want something with lots of surface area; ceramic rings and bioballs are very popular choices but there are many different kinds of biological media on the market. You can improvise with all sorts of media, the more surface area, the more efficient the filtration will be.
Chemical filtration is up to you and what you want to achieve in your aquarium. A healthy aquarium that is regularly maintained won't need chemical filtration, but some choose to use it. Activated carbon is known for removing colours and odours (issues a healthy aquarium would not have, thus hiding potential issues), Purigen removes nitrates (but can release it all back in to the tank if not recharged regularly)... when it comes to chemical filtration, you will need to research the product that will do what you want it to achieve as they have varied purposes.
Having said that, Activated Carbon is great for removing medications from the water column after treatment.
For biological filtration, you want something with lots of surface area; ceramic rings and bioballs are very popular choices but there are many different kinds of biological media on the market. You can improvise with all sorts of media, the more surface area, the more efficient the filtration will be.
Chemical filtration is up to you and what you want to achieve in your aquarium. A healthy aquarium that is regularly maintained won't need chemical filtration, but some choose to use it. Activated carbon is known for removing colours and odours (issues a healthy aquarium would not have, thus hiding potential issues), Purigen removes nitrates (but can release it all back in to the tank if not recharged regularly)... when it comes to chemical filtration, you will need to research the product that will do what you want it to achieve as they have varied purposes.
Having said that, Activated Carbon is great for removing medications from the water column after treatment.
Filter maintenance
ALWAYS RINSE MEDIA IN DECHLORINATED/TANK WATER! Using untreated water will kill off beneficial bacteria and you will lose your cycle.
Mechanical media should be rinsed as necessary, once a month is a good minimum but depending on the amount of debris collected, it may need to be more often. Save a bucket of old tank water during a water change and squeeze the media to remove the sludge (I water my plants with this water, collect another bucket of water and squeeze again to give them a rinse off).
Biological media will rarely need rinsing. I find popping it into a bucket every six months or so and hosing down with water as I siphon keeps it running well. If your mechanical filtration isn't quite up to scratch, you may need to do this more often.
Chemical filtration varies product to product. Activated Carbon should be removed/replaced after four weeks. If you have filter cartridges, I recommend buying some sponge. Remove the cartridge from the filter and pop the sponge in. Cut the floss off the cartridge and discard the Activated Carbon. Place the floss cut from the cartridge (THIS IS WHERE YOUR BACTERIA IS) around the new sponge. This will seed the sponge with the bacteria. The old floss can be removed after a couple of months.
Mechanical media should be rinsed as necessary, once a month is a good minimum but depending on the amount of debris collected, it may need to be more often. Save a bucket of old tank water during a water change and squeeze the media to remove the sludge (I water my plants with this water, collect another bucket of water and squeeze again to give them a rinse off).
Biological media will rarely need rinsing. I find popping it into a bucket every six months or so and hosing down with water as I siphon keeps it running well. If your mechanical filtration isn't quite up to scratch, you may need to do this more often.
Chemical filtration varies product to product. Activated Carbon should be removed/replaced after four weeks. If you have filter cartridges, I recommend buying some sponge. Remove the cartridge from the filter and pop the sponge in. Cut the floss off the cartridge and discard the Activated Carbon. Place the floss cut from the cartridge (THIS IS WHERE YOUR BACTERIA IS) around the new sponge. This will seed the sponge with the bacteria. The old floss can be removed after a couple of months.
Pool pond running DIY bottle filters, DIY bucket filter and sponge filters
When should I replace my media?
Only when it is falling apart.
And even then, stick it around your new media and remove the old stuff slowly over a couple of months. Replacing it all will remove your cycle and you will have to start your cycle from scratch. Removing too much could bump your cycle.
Whenever you remove media, monitor your parameters daily and perform water changes as necessary.
And even then, stick it around your new media and remove the old stuff slowly over a couple of months. Replacing it all will remove your cycle and you will have to start your cycle from scratch. Removing too much could bump your cycle.
Whenever you remove media, monitor your parameters daily and perform water changes as necessary.