Planted Goldfish Tank
You would not believe the number of times I am told that you can't keep plants with Goldfish. I beg to differ. All my Goldfish tanks and tubs have plants of some sort in there, find the right plants and you're on to a winner!
What are the benefits of plants?
Plants are aesthetically pleasing. What better reason could you want for keeping them? Oh okay, you want something a little more scientific ( I should inform you that it is morning and I am in pre-coffee mode!)...
Fish waste is plant fertiliser, this benefits the plants as it gives them lots of lovely nutrients to encourage lush growth. It also means the plants are using the fish waste, thus cleaning the water.
Some heavily planted tanks will show no nitrate reading, even though a cycle is established and healthy. This is not a bad thing, it is quite the opposite (assuming ammonia and nitrite are reading 0ppm, of course!), as it means the water is less toxic to your fish. EXCELLENT!
They also provide cover, should there be any aggression, usually breeding related. Females can be harassed pretty intensely when they're full of eggs and releasing pheromones, lots of plants enables them to hide away from the boys a little.
They're also a great place for eggs to be laid and fertilised.
They provide decoration in the tank, without risk of injury to the fish, as can be caused by plastic and rough decor.
They compete with algae for light and nutrients and if your photoperiod is good, the plants will usually win the race! Which means, less algae or risk of algae. WINNING!
Some plants are a healthy snack for Goldfish, which leads me on to the next question...
Fish waste is plant fertiliser, this benefits the plants as it gives them lots of lovely nutrients to encourage lush growth. It also means the plants are using the fish waste, thus cleaning the water.
Some heavily planted tanks will show no nitrate reading, even though a cycle is established and healthy. This is not a bad thing, it is quite the opposite (assuming ammonia and nitrite are reading 0ppm, of course!), as it means the water is less toxic to your fish. EXCELLENT!
They also provide cover, should there be any aggression, usually breeding related. Females can be harassed pretty intensely when they're full of eggs and releasing pheromones, lots of plants enables them to hide away from the boys a little.
They're also a great place for eggs to be laid and fertilised.
They provide decoration in the tank, without risk of injury to the fish, as can be caused by plastic and rough decor.
They compete with algae for light and nutrients and if your photoperiod is good, the plants will usually win the race! Which means, less algae or risk of algae. WINNING!
Some plants are a healthy snack for Goldfish, which leads me on to the next question...
Do Goldfish eat plants?
Goldfish are omnivores and plant matter makes up a vast part of their diet. If they eat the plants you introduce, not to worry, it's a good snack for them. Irritating as hell for you, but they enjoyed it. Try something new, there will be something out there that they will enjoy.
Commonly eaten plants include; Duckweed, Elodea/Anacharis, Eleocharis species, Hermianthus species, Glosso, UG and other similar, high tech plants. They tend to be softer and apparently, tastier!
Duckweed is an excellent laxative and works VERY effectively!
Commonly eaten plants include; Duckweed, Elodea/Anacharis, Eleocharis species, Hermianthus species, Glosso, UG and other similar, high tech plants. They tend to be softer and apparently, tastier!
Duckweed is an excellent laxative and works VERY effectively!
What plants can I keep with Goldfish?
What works with some Goldfish, will not work with others.
Anubias is number one! I've heard of very few (I actually can't recall any!) incidents where Anubias has been eaten. Java fern and Echinodorus species are similarly tough.
Cryptocorynes, Vallisneria, Hygrophila, Ludwigia, Sagittaria, Java moss, Lillies, Cabomba, Bacopa, Water Sprite, Hornwort, tiger lotus, Hydrocotyle and some alteranthera species are commonly kept with Goldfish and either have nice, tough leaves or grow fast to compensate for any nibbling that may occur.
Terrestrial plants can be added, just stick their roots in the water after a good wash and leave their leaves exposed to the air. Pothos is commonly used and is great for controlling nitrates
Anubias is number one! I've heard of very few (I actually can't recall any!) incidents where Anubias has been eaten. Java fern and Echinodorus species are similarly tough.
Cryptocorynes, Vallisneria, Hygrophila, Ludwigia, Sagittaria, Java moss, Lillies, Cabomba, Bacopa, Water Sprite, Hornwort, tiger lotus, Hydrocotyle and some alteranthera species are commonly kept with Goldfish and either have nice, tough leaves or grow fast to compensate for any nibbling that may occur.
Terrestrial plants can be added, just stick their roots in the water after a good wash and leave their leaves exposed to the air. Pothos is commonly used and is great for controlling nitrates
What light should I use?
Generally speaking, the plants that do well with Goldfish are easy going, low light plants. They will do well under most any kit lights, intensity isn't really a factor. Of course, brighter lighting (alongside increased nutrients means faster growth).
You want to aim for a colour temperature of 5500-7500k, with 6500k being the optimum for photosynthesis. The Kelvin rating is the warmth of the white; a higher rating is more blue and cooler, lower is more red and warmer. 6500k is closest to natural sunlight.
Tank depth also plays a role in how bright the light needs to be. A deeper tank, will have more water between the light and the substrate which will reduce the intensity of the light. A deeper tank will need a brighter light to provide good lighting for the plants.
You want to aim for a colour temperature of 5500-7500k, with 6500k being the optimum for photosynthesis. The Kelvin rating is the warmth of the white; a higher rating is more blue and cooler, lower is more red and warmer. 6500k is closest to natural sunlight.
Tank depth also plays a role in how bright the light needs to be. A deeper tank, will have more water between the light and the substrate which will reduce the intensity of the light. A deeper tank will need a brighter light to provide good lighting for the plants.
How long should I have my light on for?
The length of time your light is on for is known as the photoperiod. This really depends on your light, it's intensity and it'd temperature. However, a good general guideline is to have it on for around 6 hours a day.
Should this be too much (lots of algae startijg to grow) or too little for your tank (plants begin to look a little worse for wear) then you can adjust it to suit your needs.
Another theory, and one I use myself, is to use a split photoperiod (amount of time the lights are on for). I run 2×4 hour photo periods on my tanks with 2-3 hours of them being off in the middle of the day. Theory says that this allows a little co2 to build up which the plants can use for growth during the next lighting period. It is also said to reduce/inhibit algae growth. For me, it's working. I have less algae, faster growth and my plants look very lush!
Should this be too much (lots of algae startijg to grow) or too little for your tank (plants begin to look a little worse for wear) then you can adjust it to suit your needs.
Another theory, and one I use myself, is to use a split photoperiod (amount of time the lights are on for). I run 2×4 hour photo periods on my tanks with 2-3 hours of them being off in the middle of the day. Theory says that this allows a little co2 to build up which the plants can use for growth during the next lighting period. It is also said to reduce/inhibit algae growth. For me, it's working. I have less algae, faster growth and my plants look very lush!
What substrate should I use?
You can buy plant specific substrate. There are many brands and all will give good growth results. They will each offer slightly differing benefits, so explore all your options if going this route. In time, nutrients may need to be manually replaced as the plants use them up. You should be set for a good 6months though.
Dirt/soil can be used and capped with gravel. I'm a dirted tank Lass. I love what good old dirt does for my plants. With a good cap, it's Goldfish friendly and plant perfect. I use John Innes no.3 and LOVE the stuff! Be sure to cap it (cover with gravel or sand) and cap it well or you will pop it and it will be horrendously messy. If you are a fan of rescaping, this option makes that tricky. Still possible, but tricky, so I would avoid if you like to move things around often.
You can plant your plants in sand or Gravel. These are inert substrates and will need nutrients to be added manually, so the roots can feed from the Substrate.
If your tank is bare bottomed, you can still have plants! Glasses or terracotta pots filled with substrate and planted look beautiful, or you could tie some java fern and anubias to some pebbles or wood and pop them in.
Dirt/soil can be used and capped with gravel. I'm a dirted tank Lass. I love what good old dirt does for my plants. With a good cap, it's Goldfish friendly and plant perfect. I use John Innes no.3 and LOVE the stuff! Be sure to cap it (cover with gravel or sand) and cap it well or you will pop it and it will be horrendously messy. If you are a fan of rescaping, this option makes that tricky. Still possible, but tricky, so I would avoid if you like to move things around often.
You can plant your plants in sand or Gravel. These are inert substrates and will need nutrients to be added manually, so the roots can feed from the Substrate.
If your tank is bare bottomed, you can still have plants! Glasses or terracotta pots filled with substrate and planted look beautiful, or you could tie some java fern and anubias to some pebbles or wood and pop them in.
Do plants require fertiliser?
Generally speaking, plants which are Goldfish friendly are quite easy going. I recommend adding a root tablet to root feeders (research specific plants needs) and using a good, all round liquid fertiliser will also benefit the plants.
Most plants will also benefit from liquid co2, though some are sensitive. Again, research each specific plants needs requirements to be sure you have everything set up so they can thrive.
Goldfish waste is a good fertiliser, but may not be enough.
I have a lot of planted tanks and because of this, I require large quantities of fertiliser to dose my tanks regularly. Dry fertilisers are very economical and mean you aren't paying for the shipping of the water (which you can add at home). I have an EI dry fertiliser kit. It cost me £18 and will last me a good year, whereas a ready made solution would cost the same monthly.
Most plants will also benefit from liquid co2, though some are sensitive. Again, research each specific plants needs requirements to be sure you have everything set up so they can thrive.
Goldfish waste is a good fertiliser, but may not be enough.
I have a lot of planted tanks and because of this, I require large quantities of fertiliser to dose my tanks regularly. Dry fertilisers are very economical and mean you aren't paying for the shipping of the water (which you can add at home). I have an EI dry fertiliser kit. It cost me £18 and will last me a good year, whereas a ready made solution would cost the same monthly.
Do I still need to perform water changes?
Yes!! I cannot stress this enough! Nothing, nothing, beats a water change. No chemical you can buy, no understocking, no amount of plants can replace water changes.
Plants consume ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.... The things we test for.
They don't consume hormones, dissolved organic compounds or produce electrolytes and minerals that the fish need in order to thrive. For this reason WATER CHANGES ARE VITAL! Regardless of your water readings.
Just because you don't test these things, doesn't mean they aren't there. Clear water does not mean clean water and we MUST ensure the best water quality for our fish, for their health and wellbeing.
50% weekly water changes are BARE MINIMUM on an appropriately stocked tank. More is always better. The plants will help to clean the water, but you are in control of the water quality as a whole. Not just ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
If I don't test for nitrates, it doesn't mean they don't exist. In the same way, if we don't test for hormones and dissolved organic compounds, it doesn't mean they don't exist. Water changes are still essential, no excuses!
Plants consume ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.... The things we test for.
They don't consume hormones, dissolved organic compounds or produce electrolytes and minerals that the fish need in order to thrive. For this reason WATER CHANGES ARE VITAL! Regardless of your water readings.
Just because you don't test these things, doesn't mean they aren't there. Clear water does not mean clean water and we MUST ensure the best water quality for our fish, for their health and wellbeing.
50% weekly water changes are BARE MINIMUM on an appropriately stocked tank. More is always better. The plants will help to clean the water, but you are in control of the water quality as a whole. Not just ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
If I don't test for nitrates, it doesn't mean they don't exist. In the same way, if we don't test for hormones and dissolved organic compounds, it doesn't mean they don't exist. Water changes are still essential, no excuses!
Do plants need to be quarantined?
They sure do! Let my Dragonfly nymph collection be a warning to you all!
Anything can come in on plants; snails, critters, bacteria.
Quarantine is simple. Either keep them in a separate tank for 6-8weeks and monitor or perform a bleach dip (not recommended for sensitive and softer leaved plants) by making a bleach solution of 19parts water to 1 part bleach and dip the plants for a few minutes before rinsing well and dipping in dechlorinated water. They can then be added to the tank.
Anything can come in on plants; snails, critters, bacteria.
Quarantine is simple. Either keep them in a separate tank for 6-8weeks and monitor or perform a bleach dip (not recommended for sensitive and softer leaved plants) by making a bleach solution of 19parts water to 1 part bleach and dip the plants for a few minutes before rinsing well and dipping in dechlorinated water. They can then be added to the tank.