Fishless Cycling
Using no fish, instead a liquid ammonia must be added and monitored.
What you will need:
☆ Ammonia source. Ensure the ammonia is "pure", that means no perfumes, colours or surfactants. Ingredients should be ammonia and water only. (If you can't find liquid ammonia, a frozen prawn can be used as an ammonia source. Liquid ammonia is better as it is easier to dose to specific amounts and creates less mess).
☆ Liquid test kit. I recommend the API Freshwater Master test kit, but any liquid kit will work well. Avoid the strips as they're highly inaccurate (and much more expensive in the long run).
What you will need:
☆ Ammonia source. Ensure the ammonia is "pure", that means no perfumes, colours or surfactants. Ingredients should be ammonia and water only. (If you can't find liquid ammonia, a frozen prawn can be used as an ammonia source. Liquid ammonia is better as it is easier to dose to specific amounts and creates less mess).
☆ Liquid test kit. I recommend the API Freshwater Master test kit, but any liquid kit will work well. Avoid the strips as they're highly inaccurate (and much more expensive in the long run).
Step by step Guide
☆1. Test your tap water to see if your tap contains ammonia, nitrite and/or nitrate and to test the pH of the tap. Ideally, pH should be 7.0 or above as a pH of less than 7.0 can inhibit the cycling process. If you find you have a low pH you will need to buffer your water. I find crushed coral the best solution (my tap is 6.8), I pop a bag in my filter and it dissolves as needed and has held my pH at 7.2
☆2. Fill your tank and treat with Prime (or other conditioner).
☆3. Raise tank temperature to 25-30c as this encourages beneficial bacteria to develop and multiply faster.
☆4. Dose ammonia to 4ppm. Dosage will depend on the volume of water and concentration of ammonia in your source, so add a little, test and repeat. Take note of the amount, so you know how much to add in future.
☆5. Test your water regularly, at the beginning of your cycle you needn't test daily, but once you start to see ammonia decrease, test on a daily basis. When ammonia drops near 0ppm, add enough ammonia to bring it back up to 4ppm. Continue to dose ammonia so it rises back to 4ppm once it nears 0ppm. As your Ammonia levels drop, start testing the nitrites (i tested them all, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily, so I could closely monitor where I was).
☆6. When you see a nitrite reading, reduce the ammonia dosage to 1ppm. If you haven't already, begin testing for nitrates now.
☆7. If nitrites reach 2ppm, do a large water change and dose ammonia. Don't allow the nitrites to rise above 2ppm as this can stall the cycle. You should begin seeing nitrates soon.
☆8. Once you have a reading for Nitrates, continue to monitor the nitrites. As you see them fall and the nitrates rise, you are nearing the end of the cycle. If your nitrates are reading high on the chart, perform a water change and redose ammonia.
☆9.Your cycle is complete when your tank can convert 1ppm of ammonia, in under 24 hours to have 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and a reading of nitrates and you are ready for fish.
☆10. Continue feeding your bacteria every 24 hours so it doesnt starve off. When you are ready for fish, perform a large water change and acclimate them.
☆2. Fill your tank and treat with Prime (or other conditioner).
☆3. Raise tank temperature to 25-30c as this encourages beneficial bacteria to develop and multiply faster.
☆4. Dose ammonia to 4ppm. Dosage will depend on the volume of water and concentration of ammonia in your source, so add a little, test and repeat. Take note of the amount, so you know how much to add in future.
☆5. Test your water regularly, at the beginning of your cycle you needn't test daily, but once you start to see ammonia decrease, test on a daily basis. When ammonia drops near 0ppm, add enough ammonia to bring it back up to 4ppm. Continue to dose ammonia so it rises back to 4ppm once it nears 0ppm. As your Ammonia levels drop, start testing the nitrites (i tested them all, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily, so I could closely monitor where I was).
☆6. When you see a nitrite reading, reduce the ammonia dosage to 1ppm. If you haven't already, begin testing for nitrates now.
☆7. If nitrites reach 2ppm, do a large water change and dose ammonia. Don't allow the nitrites to rise above 2ppm as this can stall the cycle. You should begin seeing nitrates soon.
☆8. Once you have a reading for Nitrates, continue to monitor the nitrites. As you see them fall and the nitrates rise, you are nearing the end of the cycle. If your nitrates are reading high on the chart, perform a water change and redose ammonia.
☆9.Your cycle is complete when your tank can convert 1ppm of ammonia, in under 24 hours to have 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and a reading of nitrates and you are ready for fish.
☆10. Continue feeding your bacteria every 24 hours so it doesnt starve off. When you are ready for fish, perform a large water change and acclimate them.