Goldfish Care Guide
This is a basic overview of Goldfish care - for more in depth articles, check out the articles!
What will I need?
Goldfish (Carassius auratus) are a temperate fish. Whilst this generally means they don't require a heater, it doesn't mean they NEED cold water. They can tolerate a relatively wide temperature range.
There are two main categories of Goldfish; Single Tailed and Fancy Goldfish. Single Tailed fish are slimmer, faster and much more agile than their Fancy relatives.
Single Tailed Goldfish includes Commons, Shubunkins and Comets. Fancy Goldfish includes Ryukins, Orandas and Ranchus. They have slightly differing needs, with Singles needing much more space than the Fancies but overall, they have the same needs in terms of care.
Goldfish are one of the demanding freshwater fish there is, they take a lot of work, but it's worth every second!
First thing's first! The basics of fishkeeping...
There are two main categories of Goldfish; Single Tailed and Fancy Goldfish. Single Tailed fish are slimmer, faster and much more agile than their Fancy relatives.
Single Tailed Goldfish includes Commons, Shubunkins and Comets. Fancy Goldfish includes Ryukins, Orandas and Ranchus. They have slightly differing needs, with Singles needing much more space than the Fancies but overall, they have the same needs in terms of care.
Goldfish are one of the demanding freshwater fish there is, they take a lot of work, but it's worth every second!
First thing's first! The basics of fishkeeping...
• A suitable tank and stand, a hood is recommended.
• A filter that provides at least 8x turn over if the tank volume.
• Water dechlorinator - I recommend Seachem Prime, to be used every water change.
• Siphon
•A couple buckets
• Quality sinking food
• Liquid test kit! - I recommend the API Freshwater Master liquid test kit.
Optional extras
• Substrate
• Air pump, air line, check valve and an air stone
• Lighting
• Decor --Goldfish are big and clumsy, make sure the decor has holes big enough for Goldfish to EASILY swim in and out of. They will try squeezing in small gaps so it's best to avoid them completely.
• A filter that provides at least 8x turn over if the tank volume.
• Water dechlorinator - I recommend Seachem Prime, to be used every water change.
• Siphon
•A couple buckets
• Quality sinking food
• Liquid test kit! - I recommend the API Freshwater Master liquid test kit.
Optional extras
• Substrate
• Air pump, air line, check valve and an air stone
• Lighting
• Decor --Goldfish are big and clumsy, make sure the decor has holes big enough for Goldfish to EASILY swim in and out of. They will try squeezing in small gaps so it's best to avoid them completely.
The Nitrogen Cycle
The first thing to know, when beginning your journey into fish keeping is the Nitrogen Cycle. This is the key to your success and is the same for tropical and temperate fish. An established Nitrogen Cycle is vital to the health and well being of your aquarium.
The Nitrogen Cycle is, in simple terms, making your tank safe for fish to live in. Fish produce ammonia, which is toxic to them. We want to make this ammonia safe, but how do we do that?
We want to get lots of good, nitrifying bacteria, living in our filter media which will make the tank fish friendly. This is achieved by cycling the tank.
The nitrifying bacteria live in the water column, big water changes won't affect your cycle as there is no beneficial bacteria in the water column.
This is how it works;
1) Fish and decaying plants and food produce Ammonia.
2) Bacteria in the filter, grows and eats the Ammonia.
3) This bacteria produces Nitrite, which is also toxic.
4) Another bacteria grows, and eats the Nitrites.
5) This bacteria produces Nitrates, which aren't as toxic as Ammonia and Nitrite.
6) We remove the Nitrates from the aquarium before they build up too much, through water changes.
7) You are cycled when your water has 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites and a reading for Nitrates.
This process will take 6-8weeks, but it is vital for the health of your aquarium. Once you have the nitrogen cycle cracked, you are well on your way to being a successful fishkeeper.
How do I cycle my tank?
There are three main ways, which are safe to cycle a tank. Ideally, a fishless cycle prior to purchasing your fish. This is the safest way to cycle your tank and ensures minimal stress for the fish.
FISHLESS;
1) Using no fish, instead a liquid ammonia must be added and monitored. Ensure the ammonia is "pure", that means no perfumes, colours or surfactants.
FISH IN;
2) Daily water changes should be performed and Prime dosed. Seachem Prime detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 24hours, whilst keeping the cycle in tact. This will need to be kept up for the length of the cycle. You will need to test the water daily and ensure the ammonia/nitrites never rise above 1ppm and dose Seachem Prime every 24hours (double dose if needs be). The Prime will protect the fish. Whilst this method is not ideal, it's the safest method of fish in cycling.
3) Using a chemical product. This method is really not suitable for Goldfish. It puts them at risk and is very stressful. Whilst bottled can be successful, Goldfish produce too much waste for this to be a suitable option.
The Nitrogen Cycle is, in simple terms, making your tank safe for fish to live in. Fish produce ammonia, which is toxic to them. We want to make this ammonia safe, but how do we do that?
We want to get lots of good, nitrifying bacteria, living in our filter media which will make the tank fish friendly. This is achieved by cycling the tank.
The nitrifying bacteria live in the water column, big water changes won't affect your cycle as there is no beneficial bacteria in the water column.
This is how it works;
1) Fish and decaying plants and food produce Ammonia.
2) Bacteria in the filter, grows and eats the Ammonia.
3) This bacteria produces Nitrite, which is also toxic.
4) Another bacteria grows, and eats the Nitrites.
5) This bacteria produces Nitrates, which aren't as toxic as Ammonia and Nitrite.
6) We remove the Nitrates from the aquarium before they build up too much, through water changes.
7) You are cycled when your water has 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites and a reading for Nitrates.
This process will take 6-8weeks, but it is vital for the health of your aquarium. Once you have the nitrogen cycle cracked, you are well on your way to being a successful fishkeeper.
How do I cycle my tank?
There are three main ways, which are safe to cycle a tank. Ideally, a fishless cycle prior to purchasing your fish. This is the safest way to cycle your tank and ensures minimal stress for the fish.
FISHLESS;
1) Using no fish, instead a liquid ammonia must be added and monitored. Ensure the ammonia is "pure", that means no perfumes, colours or surfactants.
FISH IN;
2) Daily water changes should be performed and Prime dosed. Seachem Prime detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 24hours, whilst keeping the cycle in tact. This will need to be kept up for the length of the cycle. You will need to test the water daily and ensure the ammonia/nitrites never rise above 1ppm and dose Seachem Prime every 24hours (double dose if needs be). The Prime will protect the fish. Whilst this method is not ideal, it's the safest method of fish in cycling.
3) Using a chemical product. This method is really not suitable for Goldfish. It puts them at risk and is very stressful. Whilst bottled can be successful, Goldfish produce too much waste for this to be a suitable option.
Tank Size
Fancy Goldfish require at least 20USG/80litres for the first fish, and at least 15USG(60l) for each fish thereafter. Single Tailed Goldfish require at least 30+USG (120+Litres) per fish. Personally, I wouldn't keep Single Tails in anything smaller than a 75G.
These are bare minimum requirements. Bigger is always better and you may require an upgrade as your fish grow. Goldfish are big, Singles can easily reach over 12" and Fancies can easily reach 8". They are poop machines and need plenty of water to dilute their waste, as well as lots of space to swim around.
Goldfish aren't suited to tall tanks. The smaller surface area doesn't allow a good area for gaseous exchange to be produced, and Goldfish need plenty of oxygen. They also require the swims space lengthways and some fancies do struggle with deeper water, due to their rounder bodies.
It is a common misconception that Goldfish will only grow to the size of their surroundings. If this happens, this is stunting. This is where the internal organs continue to grow, whilst the outer body stays small. This is a slow and painful process for the fish and is life limiting.
Goldfish do most of their growing in the first three years, this means they grow fast. These are two of my Orandas. The first is a couple of months old, the second is a couple of years old (if that!) and isn’t fully grown yet. As you can see, these are big fish. They need space to grow, swim and enjoy their lives, as well as for their health and well being.
These are bare minimum requirements. Bigger is always better and you may require an upgrade as your fish grow. Goldfish are big, Singles can easily reach over 12" and Fancies can easily reach 8". They are poop machines and need plenty of water to dilute their waste, as well as lots of space to swim around.
Goldfish aren't suited to tall tanks. The smaller surface area doesn't allow a good area for gaseous exchange to be produced, and Goldfish need plenty of oxygen. They also require the swims space lengthways and some fancies do struggle with deeper water, due to their rounder bodies.
It is a common misconception that Goldfish will only grow to the size of their surroundings. If this happens, this is stunting. This is where the internal organs continue to grow, whilst the outer body stays small. This is a slow and painful process for the fish and is life limiting.
Goldfish do most of their growing in the first three years, this means they grow fast. These are two of my Orandas. The first is a couple of months old, the second is a couple of years old (if that!) and isn’t fully grown yet. As you can see, these are big fish. They need space to grow, swim and enjoy their lives, as well as for their health and well being.
Filtration
Goldfish need as much filtration as you can possibly add. At least 8 x the tank volume turnover per hour. If the current is too strong, the output can be simply baffled to disperse the flow.
Filter Cartridges/replacing filter media:
It is a common misconception that cartridges or media should be replaced monthly. This is where your cycle is held and removing the media, removes the cylcle and starts the whole process again, exposing your fish to their toxic waste.
Activated Carbon does expire after a month, and should be removed. If you are using a filter cartridge, cut it open and throw away the AC, but heep the floss (fabric), this is where all your nitrifying bacteria is. Buy some sponge and cut to size and shove the old floss around it. this will seed the new media. The old floss can be removed after 2-3months.
YOUR FILTER MEDIA SHOULD ONLY EVER BE REPLACED IF IT IS FALLING APART!
This is very rarely, my filter media has done me years. If you do need to replace it, be sure to remove the old media slowly, so as not to bump the cycle. You should test your water daily throughout the transition and perform water changes and dose Prime accordingly.
***NEVER RINSE MEDIA UNDER TAP WATER***
This will kill your cycle. The heavy metals, chlorine in particular, will kill the beneficial bacteria. Always rinse in old tank/dechlorinated water.
Filter media should never be replaced, unless it's falling apart. Even then, stick the old stuff around the new stuff as this is where the good bacteria is. You can remove the old stuff, once it's been with the new stuff for a month or two.
Filter Cartridges/replacing filter media:
It is a common misconception that cartridges or media should be replaced monthly. This is where your cycle is held and removing the media, removes the cylcle and starts the whole process again, exposing your fish to their toxic waste.
Activated Carbon does expire after a month, and should be removed. If you are using a filter cartridge, cut it open and throw away the AC, but heep the floss (fabric), this is where all your nitrifying bacteria is. Buy some sponge and cut to size and shove the old floss around it. this will seed the new media. The old floss can be removed after 2-3months.
YOUR FILTER MEDIA SHOULD ONLY EVER BE REPLACED IF IT IS FALLING APART!
This is very rarely, my filter media has done me years. If you do need to replace it, be sure to remove the old media slowly, so as not to bump the cycle. You should test your water daily throughout the transition and perform water changes and dose Prime accordingly.
***NEVER RINSE MEDIA UNDER TAP WATER***
This will kill your cycle. The heavy metals, chlorine in particular, will kill the beneficial bacteria. Always rinse in old tank/dechlorinated water.
Filter media should never be replaced, unless it's falling apart. Even then, stick the old stuff around the new stuff as this is where the good bacteria is. You can remove the old stuff, once it's been with the new stuff for a month or two.
Water Changes
It is recommended that you change 50% a week as a minimum, in an adequately stocked tank, but more is always better and dependent on your individual circumstances, May be required. Twice a week, or more is better! You can never do too many water changes. Just make sure the temperature matches and the water is treated.
Only change 50+% of the water if the tank and tap pH differ by less than 0.5.
Through water testing, we want to keep our ammonia 0, our nitrites 0 which the cycle should do for us and our nitrates below 40ppm, preferably below 20ppm, this is done by manual water changes.
Water changes also remove dissolved solids, hormones and other nasties from the water column that we don't want there. Vacuuming the substrate also removes any build up of waste, which can cause spikes in parameters.
http://www.myaquariumclub.com/the-difference-between-25-and-50-water-changes...a-visual-9333.html
Only change 50+% of the water if the tank and tap pH differ by less than 0.5.
Through water testing, we want to keep our ammonia 0, our nitrites 0 which the cycle should do for us and our nitrates below 40ppm, preferably below 20ppm, this is done by manual water changes.
Water changes also remove dissolved solids, hormones and other nasties from the water column that we don't want there. Vacuuming the substrate also removes any build up of waste, which can cause spikes in parameters.
http://www.myaquariumclub.com/the-difference-between-25-and-50-water-changes...a-visual-9333.html
Diet
Mature Goldfish are naturally omnivores, they will eat anything. They need a varied diet, so be sure to give them lots of different foods as well as a high quality sinking food as a staple. NLS and Saki Hikari are highly recommended.
You can also feed gel foods. Repashy Soilent Green and Super Green are both very goldie friendly. Or you can make your own by blending boiled vegetables and protein (fish fillet, prawns, worms etc) with Agar Agar or Gelatine. Adding a fish friendly vitamin like Vitachem or Vitazin increases its nutritional value. Avoid "warm blooded" meat as it's hard for them to digest.
You can also feed a wide variety of vegetables for them to graze on. Courgette/zucchini, spinach, peas, kale, bell peppers, carrot... anything you have on hand. Just blanch/steam/boil and serve! The harder veg may need cutting into bite sized pieces or grating. I shove a fork through any veg which floats and attach other veg with a clip (pictured).
Protein is important, particularly for young or emaciated goldfish. Bloodworms are naturally protein rich. Brine shrimp, tubifex, mosquito larvae and earthworms are all good sources of protein for our finned friends.
Fruit should be fed VERY sparingly, if not avoided. The high sugars foul the water quickly and aren't particularly good for the Goldfish.
Dried seaweed is a Goldfish favourite. You can see Nori tucking into some dried seaweed in the photo. Check there’s no flavourings or salt and attach to a pebble with an elastic band, or buy a vegetable clip.
Small regular meals are far better than one large feeding. Goldfish don't have stomachs as we know it and require a constant supply of food passing through their digestive tract.
You can also feed gel foods. Repashy Soilent Green and Super Green are both very goldie friendly. Or you can make your own by blending boiled vegetables and protein (fish fillet, prawns, worms etc) with Agar Agar or Gelatine. Adding a fish friendly vitamin like Vitachem or Vitazin increases its nutritional value. Avoid "warm blooded" meat as it's hard for them to digest.
You can also feed a wide variety of vegetables for them to graze on. Courgette/zucchini, spinach, peas, kale, bell peppers, carrot... anything you have on hand. Just blanch/steam/boil and serve! The harder veg may need cutting into bite sized pieces or grating. I shove a fork through any veg which floats and attach other veg with a clip (pictured).
Protein is important, particularly for young or emaciated goldfish. Bloodworms are naturally protein rich. Brine shrimp, tubifex, mosquito larvae and earthworms are all good sources of protein for our finned friends.
Fruit should be fed VERY sparingly, if not avoided. The high sugars foul the water quickly and aren't particularly good for the Goldfish.
Dried seaweed is a Goldfish favourite. You can see Nori tucking into some dried seaweed in the photo. Check there’s no flavourings or salt and attach to a pebble with an elastic band, or buy a vegetable clip.
Small regular meals are far better than one large feeding. Goldfish don't have stomachs as we know it and require a constant supply of food passing through their digestive tract.
Substrate
Assuming as your substrate is too large, or too small to fit into your Goldfish mouth and get stuck, it is generally suitable for Goldfish.
Sand, fine gravel, river pebbles and bare bottom are all commonly used in Goldfish tanks.
If you are using sand or have are bare bottom tank, siphoning over the substrate removes any waste build ups. If you have gravel, you'll need a gravel vac, as waste gets in all the nooks and crannies! River pebbles will need to be moved around to ensure any trapped waste is removed regularly. With sand or a bare tank, a turkey baster can come in very useful for removing piles of waste build up. You can also adjust the filter flow so the current pushes any debris into the input.
Sand, fine gravel, river pebbles and bare bottom are all commonly used in Goldfish tanks.
If you are using sand or have are bare bottom tank, siphoning over the substrate removes any waste build ups. If you have gravel, you'll need a gravel vac, as waste gets in all the nooks and crannies! River pebbles will need to be moved around to ensure any trapped waste is removed regularly. With sand or a bare tank, a turkey baster can come in very useful for removing piles of waste build up. You can also adjust the filter flow so the current pushes any debris into the input.
Temperature
Goldfish can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. Most are kept at 16-24c but many are kept outside these temperatures and thrive. Room temperature will generally suffice but a heater or chilled may be required in exceptional circumstances.
First Aid Kit
I recommend keeping on hand;
• A 40+L tank/tub as quarantine
• Aquarium salt
• Epsom salt
• Kanamycin (Seachem Kanaplex)
• Metronidazole (Seachem Metroplex)
• Furan2
• A heater
• PraziPro or Kusuri wormer plus.
• A 40+L tank/tub as quarantine
• Aquarium salt
• Epsom salt
• Kanamycin (Seachem Kanaplex)
• Metronidazole (Seachem Metroplex)
• Furan2
• A heater
• PraziPro or Kusuri wormer plus.
Quarantine
Quanantine is the process of segregating fish. Either for treatment, or keeping new stock separate for for a period of time prior to being added to the display tanks.
It is recommended you quarantine ALL NEW FISH, regardless of the source for 4-8weeks before you add them to your display tank.
We also recommend you treat for flukes, using this treatment schedule:
http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/105076-schedules-for-the-treatment-of-flukes-etc-using-praziquantel/
It is recommended you quarantine ALL NEW FISH, regardless of the source for 4-8weeks before you add them to your display tank.
We also recommend you treat for flukes, using this treatment schedule:
http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/105076-schedules-for-the-treatment-of-flukes-etc-using-praziquantel/
Plants
Yes! Anubias and Java fern are very goldie friendly and should be tied or glued to rocks or wood, as opposed to big planted.
Vallisneria, Ludwigia, Hygrophila, Bacopa, Cabomba, Swords, Cryptocorynes, Rotala, Dwarf sag, lilies, tiger lotus and Hydrocotyle are other options.
Goldfish may eat plants, they may not. Anubias and Java fern are pretty hardy, as are swords and crypts. Find what works for you and your fish, just because they eat one plant, doesn't mean they'll eat all plants!
Vallisneria, Ludwigia, Hygrophila, Bacopa, Cabomba, Swords, Cryptocorynes, Rotala, Dwarf sag, lilies, tiger lotus and Hydrocotyle are other options.
Goldfish may eat plants, they may not. Anubias and Java fern are pretty hardy, as are swords and crypts. Find what works for you and your fish, just because they eat one plant, doesn't mean they'll eat all plants!